In today's post I would like to go through the principles of photography and DSLR camera as we discussed on our session. As I already know the most important thing in photography is light. Here is the triangle on which we can find an explanation of three basic settings of light - Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO.
As I can see on this triangle, as smaller is aperture (less exposure) that everything on our picture will be in focus (f/22). If there is larger aperture (larger exposure) then we can achieve blurred background (f/1.2). As faster we set up shutter speed for example 1/4000 (less exposure), then we can freeze the motion. When we have slower shutter speed for example 1/30 (more exposure), then we capture blurred motion. The basis of the triangle is ISO - as less exposure, for example 100 , that we have darker image but also cleaner image. As more exposure - 6400, we achieve brighter image, but also noisier image.
Now I would like to explain what are the three basic principles of the light.
Aperture - is the amount of light that reaches the sensor through the lens (F-stop). The sensor's degree of exposure to light will be controlled by the aperture size. More light reaches the film / image sensor the larger the aperture diameter. The larger the lens opening (aperture), the lower the F-stop number (or f/value) (inverse relationship).
In simple words as smaller is aperture the more light enters to the camera and the image is brighter. (f/1.4 - f/5). As larger is aperture that darker is the picture (f/6- f/22). Also with the aperture we can control the depth of field factor, as smaller is aperture then we achieve brighter image and shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field is an effect in which only a small portion of the image is in
focus. For example, a photograph could have an in-focus subject but a blurred background. A shallow depth of field is in contrast to a large depth of field, which keeps the entire photo in focus from foreground to background. Then there is deep depth of field which means everything is in focus.
With the aperture I can be creative and use f/1.4 and create 'Bokeh' effect. Bokeh is derived from the Japanese word boke, which means "haze" or "blur," or boke-aji, which means "blur quality." BOH-K or BOH-kay is how we pronounce bokeh. "The effect of a soft out-of-focus background that you get when shooting a subject with a fast lens at the widest aperture, such as f/2.8 or wider," according to the definition. Simply described, bokeh is the attractive or aesthetic quality of a photograph's out-of-focus blur. Here I add example of interesting photos that I like, they clearly shows what effect we can achieve using less aperture:
In my opinion this photo looks like painting. I can see a wonderful play of green and white color. The foreground and background is blurred. It creates amazing picture.
Nikon D3000 60mm lens, 1/13 second, f/10 by Paul Van Allen
Here I can see very detailed drops of water under the leaf. Camera is focused on foreground to catch the attention. Most of the green color is blurred and orange is in focus. That creates interesting picture.
I found some useful tips to create 'Bokeh' photography provided by Nikon
1. Fast aperture is the best (at least f/2.8)
2. Use fast prime lenses
3. Long focal length creates more extreme bokeh
4. Shoot lenses wide open
5. Increase distance between subject and background
6. Move closer to your subject
7. Take close-up portraits and macro images in nature
8. Use a backlight, side light, or hair light
Here we have examples of what effect can we achieve with different apertures:
The next one is Shutter Speed - The shutter speed of a camera is the amount of time it takes for the shutter to open and expose light to the sensor. The difference between a long shutter and a fast shutter is that the former generates blur while the latter freezes motion.
On this picture I can see that if we use 1/4000 - 1/1000 shutter speed we can freeze fast moving objects. From 1/250 to 1/60 we can make everyday photos with still objects or barely moving. With shutter speed from 1/30 - 10'' we can capture motion with blur. Also I can choose the blur factor. With long exposure - we can make creative images, if we put 2 sec - we can capture fireworks, from 5 sec to 10 sec we can capture stars and achieve milky effect on moving water.
The last one setting is ISO. The ISO number indicates how sensitive the camera is to light. The lower the ISO number, the less light sensitive the camera is. Image quality generally degrades as ISO speed increases.
Now I would like to look at the camera settings. In my DSLR Canon 700D camera I can find twelve different modes.
'Canon' settings
Full automatic mode - automatic exposure is when the camera chooses the optimum shutter speed, aperture, ISO and flash settings for your shot. All I need to do is point and shoot.
Manual mode - Aperture and Shutter Speed are fully controlled manually in manual mode. In this mode, I can set the aperture and shutter speed to any value I desire - the camera gives me complete control over the exposure.
Shutter priority mode - I use it when I need to manage shutter speed but don't care much about aperture (much), I can choose the shutter speed, and the camera adjusts the aperture automatically to maintain the proper exposure.
Aperture Priority mode - It lets me to choose the aperture (f-stop) while the camera changes the shutter speed automatically to achieve the desired exposure. It's referred to as Av (Aperture value) in Canon cameras.
Program mode - means that the camera still sets the exposure. It chooses the correct aperture and shutter speed for the light available, so the shot is correctly exposed. Program mode also unlocks other functions that give me more creative control over my images.
Landscape mode - often employs a narrow aperture (high f/number) to produce a well-focused image from the foreground to the distant, landscape mode works best with a wide lens and when the scene is properly lit.
Portrait mode - "thinks" there's a person in the foreground of the picture, so it chooses a narrow depth of field to keep the human subject in focus while blurring the backdrop. If the camera detects a dark scene, it will use fill-in flash.
CA mode - Creative Mode - improves some camera functions by eliminating any confusion by using Canon's Quick Control panel. Setting depth of field, for example, is done by modifying a sliding scale that runs from Background Blurred to Background Sharp, rather than using apertures.
First I twist to CA
Then I press Q button
And then the Quick Control screen is displayed, when I can set up settings and experiment with depth of field, selective focus, custom color palettes, and camera flash modes.
SCN mode - the camera automatically optimizes settings for the subject or scene, adjusting settings.
As I can see I can use many different camera modes to practice my photography and to achieve the effect that I want. Some of the modes are convenient to use. The most interesting to me is manual mode when I can learn and experiment with different light settings. I'm surprised positive with the 'bokeh' effect that I can achieve, those picture looks magical! Now I became more familiar with my Canon 700D DSLR camera and can't wait to take more advanced pictures!
Sources:
https://hk.canon/en/support/8202554100https://www.popphoto.com/news/2010/09/what-exactly-creative-auto/
https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/tips-and-techniques/bokeh-for-beginners.html
photzy.com
https://digital-photography-school.com/shutter-speed/
https://lukebrennan.co.uk/what-is-the-exposure-triangle-in-photography-a-complete-guide/
https://www.pcworld.co.nz/review/canon/eos_100d/462173/
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